Day 9: Ireland- Through wind and rain
So the leftovers of a tropical storm are hitting Ireland right now so today was extremely windy and had showers off and on. We kept getting very lucky as we would be indoors during the really rainy bits and then arrive at our destinations right when the rains stops! Could this be the mythic "Luck of the Irish"?
We checked out of the Crockatinney B&B this morning to head further north. On the way was Derry (or Londonderry, and we learned why later)...and that involves history talk so I think I'm gonna hand this one over to Jeff. So Jeff, tell them about our day today!
Hullo~.
So I don't really want to get into the specifics, as there are still a lot of hurt feelings and bloodfeuds on both sides of the whole... Ulster... Plantation... Thing. Short version is as follows:
England wanted some land. Ireland had that land. England annexed that land and rented it back to the few people who used to live on that land who supported the Crown for a lot more than what it was worth. And there were a bunch of Guilds who held a stranglehold on trade into the area. It was bad news bears.
First up, there was The Wall of Derry. It was, you guessed it, a wall. In Derry. Within was the zone called Free Derry, which was (ostensibly) free from English rule. There was a siege, and a lot of people died. But the important bit was that there was a bunch of little shops we'll come back to in a later part of this entry.
Grianan Aileach was a hilltop fortress and meeting place, consisting of a ring of stones that may or may not have once had a mighty thatched roof. It was built in the early 800s, and stayed that way for nearly 100 years until some Norsefolk showed up and put it to the torch. It was completely demolished in the 1100s by the King of Munster. The ring of stone we stood in today was recreated in the 1870s by a professor from Derry, who thought it would be grand to have a ring of stones.
Next up, our lodgings for the night. We drove for a long while and eventually arrived in Donegal. Our party took a brief break to recuperate at thefabulous Ali Baba Hotel Resort and Casino Ardeevin Guest House before heading into Donegal proper - via the local cabbie - to grab a bite to eat and listen to some Authentic Irish Folk Music (tm) performed by Authentic Irish Folk (tm).
Dinner was at the Olde Castle Bar and Restaurant. There was many a food to be had. The atmosphere was cozy, because we were in a private booth like real life Adventurers would've sat at to have clandestine meetings with their Hooded Benefactor back in the Fantasy Middle Ages. I sat on a stool!
Plates of lamb, sea bass, mushroom risotto, and crab spring rolls refueled us after a long day on the road. We talked and ate and enjoyed each others company for nearly two hours before succumbing to boredom and sort of wandering down the street to an different pub, The Reel Inn. It was by a river. Where people fish. How very clever, Donegal.
The Reel Inn (as well as the Olde Castle) were both packed full of Americans. I'm pretty sure that, if a census were conducted on any given evening, Donegal would be at least 40% American by volume. We ordered a few drinks - Mary got a cider! Heavens! - and sat at a corner table to listen to the music.
As is typical in Europe, the people we were waiting for were about 45 minutes late.
But they started playing and it was solid quality Folke Musice. One guy had a pennywhistle that must've cost nearly three pennies. I was in awe!
After a good dozen songs or so, we called a cab back to the guest house. Same cabbie picked us up. I think there's only maybe three in town.
And that's been our day. It's been very long and, in hindsight, it doesn't really seem like we got a lot done. That might have just been a side effect of how many ridiculously busy days we've had in the past week and a half.
Tomorrow, on to Wool Country. And maybe some kind of arcade? I dunno, I don't have access to the itinerary. I just direct us where I'm told like some sort of weird, spice-addled tank-dwelling monster person. [Editor's Note: That was a Dune joke.]
We checked out of the Crockatinney B&B this morning to head further north. On the way was Derry (or Londonderry, and we learned why later)...and that involves history talk so I think I'm gonna hand this one over to Jeff. So Jeff, tell them about our day today!
Hullo~.
So I don't really want to get into the specifics, as there are still a lot of hurt feelings and bloodfeuds on both sides of the whole... Ulster... Plantation... Thing. Short version is as follows:
England wanted some land. Ireland had that land. England annexed that land and rented it back to the few people who used to live on that land who supported the Crown for a lot more than what it was worth. And there were a bunch of Guilds who held a stranglehold on trade into the area. It was bad news bears.
First up, there was The Wall of Derry. It was, you guessed it, a wall. In Derry. Within was the zone called Free Derry, which was (ostensibly) free from English rule. There was a siege, and a lot of people died. But the important bit was that there was a bunch of little shops we'll come back to in a later part of this entry.
We hit up the Guild Hall next, because I'm a proud member of House Dimir and wanted to pay my respect to the Guildpact. Lo' and Behold, this is just a museum and event space! There wasn't a Jace to be found. The unmitigated gall of these folks. Angie's dad tried on the Mayor's Cape, which was a lot like Batman's if Batman dressed like an actual rich playboy instead of some guy who punches clowns while wearing a leather fursuit. This was where we learned about the Late Unpleasantness of the Ulster Plantation. All bad news, all the time.
Why does a Guild Hall need a huge organ??
Presenting: Mayor Jim!
Next up was lunch. We hit up a place called Cafe Gate, which was (as the name implies) a cafe near a gate. I was happy to learn that it had no affiliation with Gooberglape (which I can't spell out the actual name to, since we'd be brigade'd by an Actually of Neckbeards if I did). Angie, Mary, and I had sandwiches while Jim had some soup. It was a good lunch.
To the shops!
We looked around a bit at all the shops that were open (which was two of them) and bought some souvenirs. Them Espelages got caught up in a whirlwind of gab from the guy running the Artists' Collective shop, mostly about the various sights and sites we'd be visiting in the coming days. Angie and I stood outside, sulking and making japes about the various Thatchers and Chandlers whose wares we might've been able to buy had they been open. Once they were done being jackdaw'd at, we headed back to the car to continue down the road.
To the shops!
We looked around a bit at all the shops that were open (which was two of them) and bought some souvenirs. Them Espelages got caught up in a whirlwind of gab from the guy running the Artists' Collective shop, mostly about the various sights and sites we'd be visiting in the coming days. Angie and I stood outside, sulking and making japes about the various Thatchers and Chandlers whose wares we might've been able to buy had they been open. Once they were done being jackdaw'd at, we headed back to the car to continue down the road.
Grianan Aileach was a hilltop fortress and meeting place, consisting of a ring of stones that may or may not have once had a mighty thatched roof. It was built in the early 800s, and stayed that way for nearly 100 years until some Norsefolk showed up and put it to the torch. It was completely demolished in the 1100s by the King of Munster. The ring of stone we stood in today was recreated in the 1870s by a professor from Derry, who thought it would be grand to have a ring of stones.
Next up, our lodgings for the night. We drove for a long while and eventually arrived in Donegal. Our party took a brief break to recuperate at the
Dinner was at the Olde Castle Bar and Restaurant. There was many a food to be had. The atmosphere was cozy, because we were in a private booth like real life Adventurers would've sat at to have clandestine meetings with their Hooded Benefactor back in the Fantasy Middle Ages. I sat on a stool!
It finally happened: our drink order was exactly as this blog predicted
Plates of lamb, sea bass, mushroom risotto, and crab spring rolls refueled us after a long day on the road. We talked and ate and enjoyed each others company for nearly two hours before succumbing to boredom and sort of wandering down the street to an different pub, The Reel Inn. It was by a river. Where people fish. How very clever, Donegal.
The Reel Inn (as well as the Olde Castle) were both packed full of Americans. I'm pretty sure that, if a census were conducted on any given evening, Donegal would be at least 40% American by volume. We ordered a few drinks - Mary got a cider! Heavens! - and sat at a corner table to listen to the music.
As is typical in Europe, the people we were waiting for were about 45 minutes late.
But they started playing and it was solid quality Folke Musice. One guy had a pennywhistle that must've cost nearly three pennies. I was in awe!
After a good dozen songs or so, we called a cab back to the guest house. Same cabbie picked us up. I think there's only maybe three in town.
And that's been our day. It's been very long and, in hindsight, it doesn't really seem like we got a lot done. That might have just been a side effect of how many ridiculously busy days we've had in the past week and a half.
Tomorrow, on to Wool Country. And maybe some kind of arcade? I dunno, I don't have access to the itinerary. I just direct us where I'm told like some sort of weird, spice-addled tank-dwelling monster person. [Editor's Note: That was a Dune joke.]
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